The Other Cumbria: A Car-Free Rail Guide to the North Pennines

Penrith station has a habit of being treated as a doorway to somewhere else. Most people arriving here are heading west, towards Ullswater, Keswick and the well-worn honeypots of the Lake District. Fair enough. But stand on the platform, look east, and there’s another Cumbria altogether: quieter roads, bigger skies and villages that don’t expect a coach party at every corner.

That’s the North Pennines National Landscape, the renamed AONB that stretches across the top of England. It’s a UNESCO Global Geopark, a patchwork of moorland, hay meadows and lead-mining remnants, and it’s one of the best arguments going for leaving the car at home. The Lakes may have the postcards, but the North Pennines has the breathing room.

Why look east from Penrith?

Overtourism isn’t a abstract problem in Cumbria. It’s the queue for a car park at 9am, the packed path up a famous fell, the village shop that can’t keep up. The North Pennines offers a different version of the same county: still wild, still weathery, but with far more space to yourself. And the rail network makes it surprisingly easy to sample without a car.

Penrith is the pivot. From here you can head south on the Settle–Carlisle line, one of the country’s great railway journeys, and be in Appleby or Kirkby Stephen in under an hour. Those two towns are proper gateways to the North Pennines, with footpaths running straight from the station and bus links reaching further into the hills.

The rail spine that makes it work

The Settle–Carlisle line is the backbone of a car-free North Pennines trip. From Penrith, trains call at Langwathby, Lazonby and Kirkoswald, Armathwaite, Appleby, Kirkby Stephen and on towards Garsdale and Dent. Services aren’t frequent, so this isn’t a hop-on-hop-off adventure. Check the timetable before you travel, and build your day around a couple of trains rather than trying to squeeze in everything.

That slower rhythm is part of the appeal. You’re not racing between car parks. You’re watching the Eden Valley slide past, then stepping off into a village where the pub is the main event and the fell is a short walk away.

Walks that begin at the platform

Appleby to Dufton and High Cup Nick. Appleby station is a short walk from the town centre, and footpaths lead out towards Dufton and the edge of the North Pennines. The full walk to High Cup Nick is a proper day out, roughly ten miles depending on your route, with a dramatic glacial valley at the end. It’s boggy in places, so wear boots and take a map. The reward is one of the finest views in England, and you’ll likely have it mostly to yourself.

Kirkby Stephen to Nine Standards Rigg. From Kirkby Stephen station, paths climb towards Nine Standards Rigg, a line of strange cairns on the moor above town. It’s about eight miles there and back, and the final section can be soft underfoot. The views over the Eden Valley and the Pennines are worth the squelch. Check the weather before setting out; this is exposed country.

Langwathby to Long Meg and Her Daughters. A shorter, gentler option. From Langwathby station, it’s a couple of miles to Long Meg, a Neolithic stone circle with a real sense of occasion. Combine it with a riverside wander and a stop at a village pub. This is a good pick for a lazy afternoon or a first taste of the area.

Lazonby and Armathwaite. Both stations sit close to quiet riverside paths and wooded corners. These aren’t headline walks, but they’re the kind of low-key days out that make a car-free break feel less like a mission. Good for families, good for dodging the crowds.

Villages worth a slow stop

Appleby is handsome in a no-fuss way, with a long main street, a castle and a river running through it. Kirkby Stephen is a proper market town, with cafes, independent shops and a station that feels pleasantly stranded. Lazonby has a village store and pub, and Armathwaite has that end-of-the-line calm.

If you want to push further into the North Pennines, the bus link from Penrith to Alston opens up the South Tynedale valley. Alston is a fine base for narrow-gauge railway enthusiasts and anyone who likes their towns with a bit of grit. Check bus times carefully; this is not a turn-up-and-go service.

Stargazing without a car

The North Pennines is one of England’s darkest National Landscapes. On a clear night, away from village lights, the Milky Way can be genuinely startling. You don’t need a car to find a dark corner, either. Stay in Appleby or Kirkby Stephen, walk a short way out of town, and let your eyes adjust.

Take a red torch, a warm layer and a flask. Check the moon phase; a full moon will wash out the fainter stars. And be realistic about cloud. This is Cumbria. Stargazing here is a patience game, not a guaranteed show.

A simple two-night plan

Day one: train from Penrith to Appleby, walk out towards Dufton or take a shorter riverside route, then stay overnight in town. Day two: train to Kirkby Stephen, tackle Nine Standards Rigg if the weather is kind, or explore the town and the nearby lanes if it isn’t. Day three: a slow morning, a train back to Penrith, and no parking charges to worry about.

Practical notes

Buy tickets before you travel where you can. The Settle–Carlisle line is scenic, but it isn’t a metro service. Pack waterproofs even in summer. Pubs and cafes keep limited hours outside weekends, so carry water and a bit of food. And don’t treat the North Pennines as a smaller, emptier Lake District. It has its own weather, its own rules and its own very quiet charm.

That’s the point. Penrith gives you the choice. Head west for the famous stuff, or turn east and find the Cumbria that doesn’t shout about itself.